Caring for a monster at home, breeding features

Content


The South American liana monstera has long become a popular attribute of the interior not only of offices, halls of public institutions and private houses, but also living rooms in ordinary apartments. The plant requires a lot of space and strong support, which sometimes complicates caring for a monster at home. For an adult creeper, you have to allocate almost an entire wall, and in a well-lit room.

Monstera in a pot

General information

At the moment, about 50 species of monstera have been discovered in nature, but Monstera deliciosa (delicacy) is usually purchased for home cultivation. There is a room monstera and other varieties: marble (variegated), delicosis (with oval holes in the leaf plate), Borziga.

When buying a spectacular plant with carved leaves, not everyone knows how much space it will need in a very short time. The more favorable the conditions are, the faster the monstera will develop without losing its decorative effect.

Liana feels good at a temperature of 20-25 ° C, is not demanding on humidity, prefers diffused sunlight. With a lack of lighting, the leaves of the monstera become smaller, become solid (like a water lily), the section disappears.

The stems reach several meters in length, the plant is quite heavy, so at home it is often problematic to build a stable vertical support. In most cases, the liana is attached to the wall: it is tied with a soft cord to screws or nails.

Under natural conditions, monstera blooms (flowers - cobs, fruits - berries). However, flowers almost never appear in apartments, occasionally in spacious rooms with suitable humidity and lighting.

Monstera flower

Truth and myths about the monster

Some are afraid of the monstera because of the numerous myths about its harmful effects on humans: supposedly, the vine draws out energy, causes headaches. Monstera, like any other plant, breathes oxygen. However, in the daytime in sunlight, its production significantly exceeds consumption. In addition, liana actively absorbs formaldehyde from the air, released from furniture, floor coverings. At night, the plant takes up quite a bit of oxygen, although in a cramped, unventilated room, the loss may seem noticeable. You should not place the monster in the bedroom to avoid health problems.

As for energy, according to the advice of Feng Shui experts, vines should be rounded when tying. In this case, their influence on the atmosphere of the room and the human condition will be positive.

For many, a subconscious fear is caused by the numerous aerial roots of the monstera. But this is not a means of attack at all, but an organ that provides additional moisture, photosynthesis and support. Monstera in nature, like any climbing plant, clings and takes root in any suitable environment. Thanks to this ability, the vine survives even with the loss of the main rhizome, existing as an epiphyte (a plant that uses another as a support, but does not parasitize on it).

Monstera can harm humans and animals, but only when its juice comes into contact with mucous membranes or when it enters the digestive tract. The following symptoms are characteristic:

  • swelling of the pharynx and mouth;
  • loss of voice;
  • violation of the swallowing reflex.

If there are small children or animals in the house, they should be protected from vines.

Pot with a monster

Requirements for soil, planting containers, transfer regime

Optimal soil composition for monstera:

  • 3 parts of peat;
  • 2 parts of humus;
  • 1 part sand.

You can add 1 part garden soil. It is better to purchase ready-made soil mixtures ("Gardens of Auriki", "Seliger-Agro") in order not to risk the health of the plant.

For a young monstera (1-3 years old), a 2-3 liter pot is quite enough, and then you will have to pick up a larger container - 7-10 liters. On sale there are decorative buckets for 15-20 liters - this will be comfortable for an adult plant. A minimum of 1.5-2 cm (depending on the volume of the pot) of fine gravel or expanded clay for drainage must be poured onto the bottom.

Until the age of 3 years, the monster is recommended to be transplanted annually. This is done to stimulate the development of the root system and intensive nutrition.

Advice

If you immediately plant a young monster in a large container, then until the entire volume of soil is mastered by the roots, there is a great risk of rotting.

After 5 years, the vine needs replanting every 4 years, but for stable development, an annual replacement of the topsoil will be required.

Watering the monstera should be regular, carried out when the top layer dries about 2 cm.In winter, once every 10 days is enough, provided that the tub with the plant is located far from the heater and does not stand on a heated floor.

Transplant technique

Monstera is transplanted by the transshipment method. To do this, the earthen lump must first be dried so that it easily moves away from the walls of the container. Some recommend abundant watering before transplanting, but in this case, the soil will stick to the walls of the pot along with the roots, which will inevitably lead to damage to them.

When a large liana is transplanted, it is completely or partially removed from the mounts, carefully laid out on the floor. The pot is tossed to one side on a pre-laid piece of polyethylene. You need to grab the monster by the stems at the base and gently pull it out of the container. Previously, you can lightly knock on the walls of the pot, then the dried earthen lump will come out without problems along with the roots. It is more convenient to transplant a monstera with an assistant, who at this time will slightly shake the tub.

When the earthy clod is released, it is carefully transferred to a new container filled with drainage (at least 1.5 cm) and soil (at least 4 cm). On the sides, soil is poured, gradually compacted. After planting the vines, the soil is shed with an emphasis on the perimeter. You should not strive for water seepage into the sump, it is enough to wet the side areas to activate the roots.

Top dressing Uniflor

Top dressing

Young monsters, with regular transplants, do not experience an urgent need for feeding until about 5 years old. Additional food is needed for adult vines to maintain decorativeness.

The monster is fed during the active growing season - twice a month from March to October. You can apply complex fertilizers for decorative foliage: "Gumisol", "Uniflor", Agricola... Some recommend periodic watering of the vine with onion peel infusion, which provides not only nutrition, but also disinfection of the soil. As an organic fertilizer, the topsoil can be mulched with deciduous humus.

Foliar top dressing of lianas consists in spraying with a urea solution (preparation "Urea-K6").

The monstera aerial root system can also help provide the plant with nutrition and moisture. To do this, the longest are sent to the soil of the pot, and the shorter ones are neatly collected in bunches and lowered into tied containers with water. Such a measure will help prevent the withering of the monstera if the air is too dry (in long-term hot weather), if there is no one to water the plant during the absence of the owners.

Monstera leaves

Hygiene

An important component of caring for a monster is the regular cleaning of the leaf plate from dust. When polluted, photosynthesis and gas exchange are disrupted, which negatively affects the state of the vine.

Advice

Wipe monstera leaves with a damp, well-wrung out cotton cloth or microporous rubber cloth. From an ordinary sponge, stains often remain.

To improve the appearance and shine of the leaves of the vine, you can use special plant aerosols (for example, Perfect Plant). But it is believed that they clog the stomata of the leaf and interfere with breathing. A good effect will be also when wiped with a mixture of water and milk (1: 1). Some growers recommend banana peels (inner side) as a "polishing sponge".

Monstera on the windowsill

Disease protection

Lianas at home are also susceptible to pests and various diseases, which will certainly affect their appearance.

The loss of decorative properties of monstera can be provoked by external conditions:

  • leaves turn yellow due to excessive moisture;
  • the trunk is exposed due to insufficient lighting;
  • the edges of the leaf plate turn brown and dry due to low air humidity;
  • the leaves of the creeper become whole, the stem twists with a lack of nutrition;
  • excess sunlight causes the leaf to turn yellow.

Monstera leaves sometimes begin to "cry" - droplets of juice form on the tips. The process in nature is called guttation (little light, a lot of moisture). If drops appear, then the soil must be dried, otherwise it may acidify.

Pest on a monster

Major pests

Pests on the monster can appear due to too dry or humid air. Often they are brought in from purchased or garden land, by the wind from the street or from a neighbor's balcony.

  • Shield

The ivy scale insect is a hard-to-kill insect that can completely destroy even an adult monster. It affects leaves, aerial roots and shoots. After laying the eggs, the females die, and offspring develops under the dense small shield with which they are attached to the plant. Wandering larvae very quickly move from one plant to another.

A sooty fungus willingly settles on the secretions of the scale insects, which is why all the affected parts of the monstera are covered with a black sticky coating.

The main control measures: periodic mechanical removal of parasites with a sponge soaked in soapy water, spraying with insecticides: 1-2 ml of "Aktelika" per 1 liter of water. It is preliminarily recommended to treat the monstera with an alcohol solution (1 part alcohol to 4 parts water) to soften the scabbard shell. In difficult cases, plant breeders advise to water the soil under the monster with Aktara solution or spray the liana with dichlorvos.

  • Spider mite

Due to the invasion of a spider mite colony, monstera leaves dry and turn yellow. On the reverse side of the sheet plate, you can see small dots and cobwebs. With a small degree of damage, the monster is washed with a strong solution of laundry soap. If the measure was unsuccessful, then chemicals are used: "Akarin", "Apollo", "Fitoverm".

  • Mealybug

If the young leaves and shoots of monstera began to deform and dry, then the culprit may be a mealybug ("hairy louse"). Its presence can be determined by tiny white lumps (like cotton wool) located at the bottom of the sheet plate or in its mouths - this is a clutch of eggs. The insect itself is very mobile, clearly distinguishable with the naked eye.

At the initial stage, wiping the monstera with alcohol or soap solution can help. If the worm continues to multiply, then spraying with drugs "Aktelik", "Fozalon", "Intavir" is used.

  • Thrips

Thrips, small oblong black insects (like tiny black sticks), cause a lot of problems for the monstera. Streaks and dots of a silvery color appear on the outside of the leaf plate, which gradually merge, leading to the drying out of the leaf. An effective measure is the treatment of monstera with preparations "Fitoverm", "Karate", "Agrovertin", "Karbofos".

How to propagate monstera: planting cuttings and seeds

Breeding monstera is not difficult. Many growers willingly distribute already strong rooted cuttings. They can be easily obtained by cutting off the top with excessive growth of the liana, as well as when the short aerial roots of the upper part of the monstera are immersed in water (white layers grow from them). When adventitious roots appear, part of the stem with a pair of leaves is cut off and planted in a prepared substrate.

Important!

Gloves should be worn when grafting to protect the skin from monstera juice.

In the root zone, vines often grow new shoots. They can be separated, dipped tips in a rooting stimulator and buried in moist nutritious soil. From above, the seedling is covered with a transparent bag or jar to maintain temperature and humidity. When a new sprout appears, the shelter can be removed.

It is also possible to plant monstera with seeds, but it is extremely rare to get them on your own. The method is also problematic due to the rapid loss of germination and prolonged pecking.

Vine seeds are germinated before planting: wrapped in a wet soft cloth or placed in wet sphagnum moss. The temperature should be around 25 ° C. Monstera seeds germinate for a long time - 1-2 months. After pecking, they are seated in cups, not too deep.

Growing a monstera is not difficult if the plant has enough space and lighting. Some are confused by the need for periodic transplants, but practice shows that an adult vine can grow for years in one container. It is important to provide her with good nutrition and moisture - this is the main care.

Monstera grows quickly, so it can be used to decorate the interior of the room in an original and useful way. To preserve decorativeness, it is enough to periodically wipe the leaves and spray the plant. The monstera will respond to the attention paid with lush greenery, will regularly disinfect the air and cheer up, despite all the myths about its harm.

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