Planting onions and rules for caring for them in the open field
Growing onions for a turnip in the open field seems to be a simple matter, but this is not entirely true. Planting onions before winter or sowing them in spring, preliminary processing of the seedlings, caring for the beds in summer - the technology of each stage has its own peculiarities. Only a competent approach is the key to a high yield of onions and a long shelf life.
Variety selection
There are many varieties of onions: early and mid-season, sweet and spicy, forming one head, or several, with different shelf life.
When choosing a variety, first of all, you need to think about what climatic zone the onion will grow in. Those varieties that grow well and are stored in the southern regions are not at all suitable for growing in the Moscow region, in the Urals or in Siberia. Only zoned varieties should be chosen.
Long shelf life are:
- bitter, pungent varieties;
- varieties whose turnip is covered with yellow, red or brown husks.
It is enough to grow sweet onions in small quantities and eat them first. Purple and white onions do not last long.
Winter or spring?
Sevok can be planted both before winter (winter) and in spring (spring).
Winter onions have some benefits:
- does not release arrows;
- ripens earlier, already in June a full-fledged turnip is formed, which is suitable for eating;
- the onion fly is less likely to damage the winter bow, because by the time it appears, it is gaining strength and becomes more rough for it;
- full harvest is carried out in July. The vacant space can be sown with siderates, and after them, greens or other vegetables (radishes, Chinese cabbage).
Autumn sowing is suitable for those regions where in winter the land is covered with snow for at least 10 cm. The snow cover protects the plantings from frost, and the onions do not freeze even at temperatures below -15 °. For cultivation in the Urals and Siberia, where the winter is snowy and the soil warms up for a long time in spring, winter onions are a good opportunity to get early not only greens, but also turnips.
For planting before winter, choose the smallest set. It does not last until spring, but in the open field it undergoes natural stratification and forms a full-fledged large head.
Winter onions have one drawback - they are stored less than spring onions.
Advice
Planting onions in the open field can be carried out in two stages - part of them can be planted as winter so that fresh onions are on the table in June. And plant the second, main, part in the spring, when the earth warms up. Spring onions are stored for a long time and do not lose their qualities until the next season.
Planting and caring for winter onions is no different from growing spring crops. The technology is the same, starting from the choice of a place for the garden and ending with preparation for storage.
Choosing a place on the site
For bulb beds, choose a sunny place that is not shaded by anything throughout the day. Onions should be grown in an area where water does not stagnate after rains. Too wet soil can cause the entire crop to rot.
It is important to observe crop rotation outdoors. Sevok can be planted after all types of cabbage, radish, tomatoes, potatoes and cucumbers. Good neighbors for onions are carrots, zucchini, or any greens. It will be correct to pre-grow in the garden siderates and embed them in the soil.
Advice
You cannot plant onions twice in a row in the same place. The unwanted precursor is garlic.
What to plant after onions for the next year:
- any greens;
- cruciferous;
- potatoes;
- beans;
- tomatoes;
- cucumbers.
The correct choice of place, observance of crop rotation and enrichment of the soil with green manure will greatly facilitate the care of bulbous plantings.
Garden bed preparation and fertilization
Onions like loose, breathable soil with a lot of rotted manure or compost. Fresh manure cannot be added - nitrogen will provoke active feather growth to the detriment of the bulb. The sour soil is not suitable for growing onions; it grows poorly on it, is sick and does not form a large head. Such soil must be limed by adding chalk, dolomite flour, lime to it.
With spring planting, the garden bed is dug up and organic matter is added in the fall, and with winter cultivation - a month before sowing. In the spring, mineral fertilizers are applied immediately before planting. If the onion is planted before winter, fertilize when the feather starts to grow in spring.
Complex mineral fertilizer can be prepared by yourself. To do this, mix 2.5 matchbox of superphosphate and 1 box of carbamide and potassium chloride. The calculation is made for 1 m2 beds.
Landing dates
Winter onions are planted in late autumn, about a month before the onset of frost. With earlier planting, the bulbs will begin to grow and fall under frost. If planted later, the roots will not have time to grow.
In spring, seedlings can be planted throughout May. It is important that the soil warms up. If you plant in cold ground, shooting and early seed formation will occur, and the onion will not be able to form a full-fledged head.
You should not rush into spring plantings. Onions have a short growing season, and they have time to ripen.
Advice
You can speed up the warming up of the soil if you put black cellophane on the garden bed.
Seeding preparation for planting
Before boarding carry out preliminary processing of seed... It promotes rapid rooting and germination, destroys fungal pathogens and protects the seedlings from pests such as onion flies.
Processing is carried out in several stages.
- Two weeks before planting, the sets are taken out to a warm place.
- If this has not been done in advance, then the bulbs are placed in a mesh bag, basket or in a cardboard box and placed near a battery or solar window for 8-10 hours;
- Trim dry tails to white pulp.
- Place the onions in warm water (30 °) for a day.
- The next day, soak in a strong solution of potassium permanganate, "Fitosporin" or a solution with salt. It is enough to hold for 20 minutes. After soaking in potassium permanganate, rinse in clean water.
If previously such a pest was seen in the garden as onion fly, then a good prevention is the treatment of seedlings with birch tar. 1 tablespoon of tar is diluted in 1 liter of water at room temperature. The onions are soaked for 2-3 hours, stir occasionally.
If an onion bed is spilled with a solution of birch tar before sowing, pests will fly around it. It is advisable to carry out additional prophylaxis in June, when the pests begin to fly again.
Planting and leaving
Planting and caring for winter and spring onions is the same.
The sevok is planted in grooves previously shed with water 4 cm deep. The distance between the grooves should be 30-35 cm. 10 cm should be left between the plants in one row. Another option is to plant in a zig-zag furrow. This will increase the feeding area, and the onions for greens will not have to be pulled out all at once.
Advice
If you cut off part of the feather for greens, the process of photosynthesis will be disrupted and the bulb will not gain the required mass. It will be right for the greenery to make a separate bed and plant sprouted bulbs from the last harvest on it or plant perennial onions.
Care consists in weeding, watering and feeding. Weeds must be removed as they grow. Weed roots should not interfere with the growth of the bulb.
Such an important part of caring for bulbous plantings, like watering, must be carried out correctly:
- immediately after planting, the garden is often watered, as the soil dries up;
- when the feather starts to grow, the frequency of watering is reduced, and in June it is reduced to a minimum.
Lack or excess of water can be identified by the color of the feather:
- a bluish-whitish color indicates a lack of moisture;
- pale green indicates its excess.
If fertilizers were applied before planting, then onion care excludes summer dressing. If the beds were not fertilized, then the plantings are watered with infusion of mullein or bird droppings.
Winter onions require additional care in the winter. If frost has come, and there is still not enough snow, then the plantings must be covered with dry foliage or spruce branches. In the spring, when the snow begins to melt, the shelter must be removed immediately.
Harvesting
For the onion to be stored for a long time, it is necessary to harvest the crop on time and correctly. Winter onions are harvested in July, and spring onions in August.
After the new feather stops growing, and the old greenery dries up and lays down, you need to pull out the bulb and examine it. Is it densely covered with husk, dry to the touch, brightly colored? This means the harvest is ready to be harvested. If you miss the ripening period, then the bulb will begin to grow further, release greens. It is eaten, but not stored.
The heads are carefully dug up and left to dry in the garden in dry weather. If it rains, dry it under the roof. After drying, they are thoroughly cleaned of the earth, taking care not to damage the husk.
The crop is sorted out, discarding dented, damaged, husked heads. The tails of the rest are cut off, leaving about 6 cm.If the tail is not dry, such a bulb will not be stored.
They are stored for storage in low boxes or boxes. The room must be dry, a suitable temperature is from +5 to + 20 °. You cannot store onions in a cold basement.
Output
To grow onions that will be stored until the next season, it is important to choose the right variety, do pre-sowing treatment and carry out constant care until the very harvest. On unkempt beds without top dressing, onions are not good.
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