How to propagate strawberries with a mustache: all the necessary information about the timing and stages of work

The most popular method of vegetative propagation of garden strawberries is by rooting a mustache with rosettes and then replanting them. Mustaches are formed in most berry varieties on their own, the gardener is only required to comply with the necessary measures and select the best specimens.

What is a strawberry mustache

Nearly all garden strawberry varieties are prone to whisker formation throughout the growing season. They are aerial shoots. Even without special procedures, rosettes from the mustache successfully root near the mother bush.

The gardener's task is to reduce the load on the mother plant and select the healthiest daughter bushes for further cultivation.

A row of strawberries in the garden bears fruit in full force for 3-4 years. After that, she needs rejuvenation: the plants get sick more often, become smaller, the yield decreases. Mustache reproduction is considered the most convenient and effective way; it is carried out at intervals of several years in many areas.

Assimilation of garden strawberries: everything you need to know

In order for the breeding method to work, you will need to follow several rules: trim the mustache and transplant outlets at certain times and weather, pick up the soil, moisturize and shade plantings in a timely manner, etc.

Preparing a bed for young strawberries

A collection of basic requirements for the place of growing young berry seedlings:

1. The plot with strawberries must be flat, without a slope, preferably on a hill. This will protect the planting from excess moisture, precipitation runoff. If it is possible to transplant only on the slope, then try to make sure that the precipitation flows in the opposite direction to the slope.
2. Strawberries are light-requiring, so shaded areas are not suitable. Young rosettes are especially sensitive to the lack of rays.
3. Soils for strawberries are loose, with a share of sand. Do not use clay soils or adjust their composition. Too heavy soil will lead to decay of the root system.
4. Soil, bad for strawberries, will improve, for example, wood ash. 1 m² - 250 g. Spread ash over the soil and dig up.
5. Mark out the garden beds. The distance between rows of strawberries is at least 0.5 m. Between individual bushes in one row, the minimum interval is 20-25 cm. Sometimes bushes are planted in a checkerboard pattern in two rows with a step of 20-30 cm.

Advice
To attract strawberry pollinators, plant marigolds, basil, and calendula near the beds.

Follow the rules of crop rotation so that the crop does not get sick.

After what plants to plant strawberries

Selection of bushes for reproduction

Identify in advance strawberry bushes for breeding. Choose the best specimens with the largest, sweetest berries and bountiful harvests. To avoid losing your plants, mark them with pegs or tie a ribbon.

Important
The age of the bush at the time of the removal of the whiskers for reproduction is 1-3 years.

Breeding time

The earlier winter comes to the region, the faster you need to start preparatory procedures for rooting. In the middle lane, it is recommended to add a mustache with rosettes by mid-June. In the southern regions, strawberries will wait until July.The optimal time for transplanting is early August. Try to take 4-6 weeks from the moment you add the socket to the transplant.

How to propagate strawberries: instructions

We prepare the bush for reproduction and root the mustache, the procedure:

1. Some gardeners grow mother bushes during the breeding season exclusively as green mass, not allowing flowering. In the spring, all flower stalks are removed, the bushes stimulate. How to achieve the formation of a strong green mass? A proven method is the application of nitrogen fertilizers. Dissolve 15 g of urea in a bucket of water and pour 1 liter under each strawberry bush. But this is not necessary, this method is more suitable for breeders and industrial farms. It is best to make sure the plants you choose match the best characteristics of the variety.
2. In June-July, identify the plants for breeding and remove 4-5 of the strongest and thickest whiskers from each. Cut the rest with pruning shears. During the season, more and more mustaches will grow, they also need to be removed. The plant should only power the propagation outlets.
3. Right in the garden, make small indentations near the mother bushes, but not too close so as not to damage the root system. Move the earth into a small plastic cup with drainage holes. Use cups to make it easier to dig out the rooted mustache. Sometimes sockets are simply rooted in the ground, but it will be more difficult to dig them out without damage.
4. Secure the first rosettes on the mustache (they are the strongest) with hairpins or paper clips (they need to be straightened) and sprinkle a little with earth.
5. At the outlet, leave only one main whisker going to the mother bush. The maximum number of daughter outlets from one bush is 15, that is, 3 sockets are left for each mustache. Such an enhanced method is used only when absolutely necessary, for example, when there is only one mother bush.
6. Examine the outlets to be transplanted. Remove any damaged leaves.
7. Carry out the care of the daughter outlets according to the same rules as for the main plantings.

Advice
Do not forget to cut the whiskers that will not be used for breeding so that they do not pull forces from the mother bush.

Preparing to move rooted outlets

When and how to start preparing to move outlets:

1. About two weeks before the transplant, the mustache should be cut from the uterine bush (approximately in the center). There is no need to dig out the sockets, they are still weak in order to take root in a new place. The recommended time to trim the mustache is mid-July.
2. Our task is to stimulate the growth of the root system of the daughter plant. To do this, add ammonium nitrate or another nitrogen preparation.

At the beginning of August, everything is ready for transplantation. From this moment until the arrival of frost, the strawberries will have time to adapt to a new place and successfully overwinter. Remember: the later the transplant is carried out, the higher the risk of the young plant freezing.

Transplanting daughter bushes

How to transplant young strawberries, all stages:

1. The transplant site should already be ready. Moisten the garden well before moving the plants there, dig holes of a suitable size.
2. Plan to plant strawberries on a cloudy, wet day. If it's hot, then provide temporary shelter on the site, if you do not want to lose a good variety of layering.
3. Dig out cups with rosettes, after moistening the soil around them. Now you can see the advantages of this method: a clod of earth remains on the roots, they do not grow, there is no need to shorten them.
4. Gently remove the root system from the cup by turning it over or simply cutting it off with scissors.
5. Planting depth is very important. The root collar should be underground. If it is outside, the strawberry bush will dry out.
6. Place the seedling in the hole and dig in with soil, lightly tamping.
7. After transplanting, water the strawberries again abundantly with warm, soft water.
8. Transplant no later than late August or early September.

Advice
How to check if bushes are securely planted? Lift the strawberries by the stem - if the bush holds on tightly, then everything is done correctly. Just do not jerk the stem, but pull gently!

Care of young plantings

Rules for caring for young garden strawberries:

1. Watering is plentiful, young strawberries need water.
2. Mulching - 5-7 days after transplanting. Cover the soil in the garden with sawdust and ash.
3. Before wintering - the first feeding with organic matter (mullein or infusion of bird droppings, leaf humus, ash), the next one in early May (with nitrogen and potassium), another one - in the summer after the end of fruiting (potassium nitrate, nitrophosphate, ash).
4. Remember to gently loosen the soil so that oxygen flows to the roots more actively.
5. A must - shelter for the winter for strawberries. Protect the soil with a layer of mulch, especially carefully insulate the root zones.

How else are strawberries propagated

There are two more ways to propagate garden strawberries, but they are used much less often:

1. Division of the bush. The method is good for remontant strawberries, varieties that form little or no whiskers. The bottom line is digging up an adult bush and dividing it into parts, each of which should have a rosette and several strong roots.
2. Seeds are the most time consuming method, and there is no guarantee that the properties of the mother plant will be preserved. Buy seed in trusted gardening stores, choose varieties with characteristics suitable for the region.

The propagation of strawberries with a mustache is not in vain considered the optimal way: this is how the best bushes are selected, the properties of the mother plant are preserved, and a minimum of effort is spent. A new strawberry bed quickly takes root with proper care and the next summer pleases the gardener with fragrant berries.